Babes in the Jungles (Chapters 1 & 2)

Our departure from England was not entirely smooth.

Our departure from England was not entirely smooth.

Some friends invited us to their home for a delicious lunch of chicken followed by strawberries.

I went down the corridor to the bathroom to run the bath then returned to our room to fetch something or other.

Unfortunately the rate of flow of water from the bath taps was considerably faster than we were used to, and when I got back to the bathroom, the water was already running over the top of the bath on to the floor, though it had not yet betrayed its presence by emerging under the door.

Unfortunately the rate of flow of water from the bath taps was considerably faster than we were used to, and when I got back to the bathroom, the water was already running over the top of the bath on to the floor, though it had not yet betrayed its presence by emerging under the door.

There was no overflow outlet from the bath, though there was at least a drain in the floor.

So there followed a few frantic moments of furtive mopping up, and hoping that the water had not penetrated the ceiling of the floor below.

So there followed a few frantic moments of furtive mopping up, and hoping that the water had not penetrated the ceiling of the floor below.

So there followed a few frantic moments of furtive mopping up, and hoping that the water had not penetrated the ceiling of the floor below.

Happily none of the hotel staff appeared while all this was going on.

Happily none of the hotel staff appeared while all this was going on.

Eventually the situation was brought under control with nothing worse than a pair ofwet socks.

We were not sorry to retire fairly early, though after all our efforts of planning and packing, we were both excited at the months in Africa that lay ahead of us.

I was a post-graduate student at the London School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS), and was to do linguistic field work on a hitherto unwritten language called Ekpeye, spoken in what was in those days known as the Eastern Region of Nigeria.

No doubt after four years in England he would have loved to be coming with us.

The problems began when we got out of the train and were in the queue to go up the gangway and board the ship.

So among the things we were carrying was a very large and unwieldy plastic bag filled with two weeks' stockpile of disposable nappies.

So among the things we were carrying was a very large and unwieldy plastic bag filled with two weeks' stockpile of disposable nappies.

Just as we got near the bottom of the gangway, the bag burst, and the nappies cascaded onto the quay.

Just as we got near the bottom of the gangway, the bag burst, and the nappies cascaded onto the quay.

We rounded them up as best we could, but the state of the bag was now such that the person carrying it needed both arms to restrain the wayward contents, and could not carry anything else.

We rounded them up as best we could, but the state of the bag was now such that the person carrying it needed both arms to restrain the wayward contents, and could not carry anything else.

At 16 months she was a fairly steady walker, but we did not feel like letting her lurch up the steep gangway unaided, and risk falling off it either onto the quay below, or worse, into the water.

At 16 months she was a fairly steady walker, but we did not feel like letting her lurch up the steep gangway unaided, and risk falling off it either onto the quay below, or worse, into the water.

At 16 months she was a fairly steady walker, but we did not feel like letting her lurch up the steep gangway unaided, and risk falling off it either onto the quay below, or worse, into the water.

At 16 months she was a fairly steady walker, but we did not feel like letting her lurch up the steep gangway unaided, and risk falling off it either onto the quay below, or worse, into the water.

Help materialised in the form of a genial lady who was asking the boarding passengers questions from a form that she was filling up.

So Glenys and I went up the gangway, thinking to drop our things quickly in our cabin and return for our precious daughter.

I quickly rushed back to the top of the gangway, only to find I was on the wrong deck, and the access was on the deck above.

I could see the poor questionnaire lady still faithfully clutching Helen's hand, and looking increasingly desperate as the queue of potential questionees got shorter and shorter.

I managed to find the right deck and retrieve Helen, who had accepted our temporary separation quite placidly.

I managed to find the right deck and retrieve Helen, who had accepted our temporary separation quite placidly.

Despite my profuse thanks for her help, the lady with the questionnaires was a little less genial than she had been.

With hindsight, we should have stopped at the top of the gangway and gone back immediately, but it was our first time on such a large ship, and we had no appreciation of its size and complexity.

With hindsight, we should have stopped at the top of the gangway and gone back immediately, but it was our first time on such a large ship, and we had no appreciation of its size and complexity.

Before the ship sailed, there were ample warnings over the loudspeaker system that the visitors should disembark, and by this time we knew exactly where the gangway was, and made sure the parents left in good time.

Before the ship sailed, there were ample warnings over the loudspeaker system that the visitors should disembark, and by this time we knew exactly where the gangway was, and made sure the parents left in good time.

Only from the perspective of forty years later can we appreciate what they must have felt like to see their one and only granddaughter disappearing for over a year to a destination that was even further beyond their imagination than it was beyond ours.

Only from the perspective of forty years later can we appreciate what they must have felt like to see their one and only granddaughter disappearing for over a year to a destination that was even further beyond their imagination than it was beyond ours.

Only from the perspective of forty years later can we appreciate what they must have felt like to see their one and only granddaughter disappearing for over a year to a destination that was even further beyond their imagination than it was beyond ours.

But for us at the time it was all a big and eagerly anticipated adventure.

The meal system on board was that small children had to eat separately from adults and to be supervised by their parents.

They were then confined to the nursery so that the adult meals were not disturbed by howling tinies.

They were then confined to the nursery so that the adult meals were not disturbed by howling tinies.

They were then confined to the nursery so that the adult meals were not disturbed by howling tinies.

This was obviously to the advantage of the adults without children, though it made meal times last twice as long for the parents.

This was obviously to the advantage of the adults without children, though it made meal times last twice as long for the parents.

On the train we had made the acquaintance of a Mrs. Haylock who was travelling to Ghana, and we had our first evening meal with her, at which we all filled up request slips for permanent dining room seating.

On the train we had made the acquaintance of a Mrs. Haylock who was travelling to Ghana, and we had our first evening meal with her, at which we all filled up request slips for permanent dining room seating.

About nine in the evening the Mersey pilot was put off the ship into a small launch at Holyhead, and so was another man.

We learned that this was a well-wisher who had apparently ignored all the warnings to leave the ship before it sailed, and had suffered the consequences.

We learned that this was a well-wisher who had apparently ignored all the warnings to leave the ship before it sailed, and had suffered the consequences.

We learned that this was a well-wisher who had apparently ignored all the warnings to leave the ship before it sailed, and had suffered the consequences.

His only consolation was a few ironic cheers from the passengers.

His only consolation was a few ironic cheers from the passengers.

Life on board was luxurious and lazy, but fortunately for me, we were spared rough weather crossing the

Life on board was luxurious and lazy, but fortunately for me, we were spared rough weather crossing the

Life on board was luxurious and lazy, but fortunately for me, we were spared rough weather crossing the

Bay of Biscay.

Glenys, whose stomach is a lot steadier than mine when it comes to travel, was secretly a little regretful at missing the chance to show her aplomb in such circumstances.

Glenys, whose stomach is a lot steadier than mine when it comes to travel, was secretly a little regretful at missing the chance to show her aplomb in such circumstances.

There were awkward swells from time to time that swished the water in the ship's swimming pool alarmingly from side to side, but the worst that came of the pitching and tossing was being involuntarily turned over in your bunk at night.

There were awkward swells from time to time that swished the water in the ship's swimming pool alarmingly from side to side, but the worst that came of the pitching and tossing was being involuntarily turned over in your bunk at night.

There were awkward swells from time to time that swished the water in the ship's swimming pool alarmingly from side to side, but the worst that came of the pitching and tossing was being involuntarily turned over in your bunk at night.

But this was more than offset by the novelty and beauty of the surroundings.

The seascapes and skyscapes offered endless variety, especially once we got far enough south to see the shoals of flying fish.

This was not just a reflection of the sky, as it persisted even when there were clouds overhead.

One experience I enjoyed every evening was standing at the stern and watching the ship's wake, with the ever changing iridescence of the churning water.

They formed an interesting and sobering contrast.

Jean was returning from leave and knew exactly what kind of situation she was going to, a situation to which she had already made a good adjustment.

She seemed to be utterly unaware of the huge differences she would face, and to have made no effort to find out about them or prepare for them.

The possibility that there might be more than one language spoken in Africa had obviously never occurred to her.

How she eventually coped with

African reality we never discovered, but the omens were not good.

At least her daughter seemed to be more intelligent than she was, so maybe the child was able to adapt better.

When we looked around the dining room, we were astonished and rather horrified to observe that there were no tables with both Europeans and Africans sitting together.

When we looked around the dining room, we were astonished and rather horrified to observe that there were no tables with both Europeans and Africans sitting together.

Our request to sit with Africans had apparently broken some unwritten rule, and European women married to Africans was evidently the nearest that was permitted.

We never encountered any overt racial prejudice among the other passengers, so could only conclude that the de facto colour bar was company policy.

We never encountered any overt racial prejudice among the other passengers, so could only conclude that the de facto colour bar was company policy.

Mrs. Haylock, for what reason she never divulged, was among the privileged elite invited to dine at the captain's table.

She was quite devoid of social snobbery, and took a perverse delight in introducing us small fry to the other top table passengers when an opportunity arose.

She was quite devoid of social snobbery, and took a perverse delight in introducing us small fry to the other top table passengers when an opportunity arose.

She was quite devoid of social snobbery, and took a perverse delight in introducing us small fry to the other top table passengers when an opportunity arose.

They never appeared to resent it.

Jean's younger girl looked me up and down with a disapproval that was as obvious as the Fife accent in her comment, "Och, ye've got hair all doon your legs."

But she was still willing to spend the morning in the company of the hairy beast.

The quay was lined with taxi drivers anxious to take passengers around the island, and especially its shops.

Jean had been in Las Palmas before, and knew that the sensible thing to do was to ignore the taxis at the head of the queue because the further you walked down the queue, the lower the price you could bargain.

Outnumbered by womenfolk, I had to endure a certain amount of shopping before we set off on a sightseeing tour, though even I was glad to buy a straw hat as protection from the sun.

We went up a very steep circular road to the top of a conical peak overlooking an extinct volcano crater called the Caldera de Bandama.

We went up a very steep circular road to the top of a conical peak overlooking an extinct volcano crater called the Caldera de Bandama.

Apart from some vineyards and banana plantations, the island was more barren than we had expected, and we felt no desire to spend a holiday there.

Apart from some vineyards and banana plantations, the island was more barren than we had expected, and we felt no desire to spend a holiday there.

Apart from some vineyards and banana plantations, the island was more barren than we had expected, and we felt no desire to spend a holiday there.

There was plenty of organised entertainment on board, though with Helen to care for, we did not attend evening functions very often.

Glenys played the dilapidated piano for the hymns.

There were also various sports activities, in some of which we participated, though with a conspicuous lack of success.

Leone, Sir Albert Margai, and his entourage.

When we woke up in Freetown, it was to an unaccustomed din.

When we woke up in Freetown, it was to an unaccustomed din.

Apart from a military guard of honour and a naval band, there was a variety of traditional instruments that we could not identify.

Freetown, visiting the Parliament House, the museum, a folk crafts centre, and a beach.

We marvelled at the exotic flowers in bloom, the lizards scampering around the grounds of the Parliament, and the huge dragonflies zooming and hovering here and there.

We marvelled at the exotic flowers in bloom, the lizards scampering around the grounds of the Parliament, and the huge dragonflies zooming and hovering here and there.

We marvelled at the exotic flowers in bloom, the lizards scampering around the grounds of the Parliament, and the huge dragonflies zooming and hovering here and there.

But we could not fail to see also the vast difference between the living standards of the local people and those of the expatriate community.

The expatriates lived in detached bungalows on the hills outside the town and near the beach.

The expatriates lived in detached bungalows on the hills outside the town and near the beach.

We had to wonder why more had not been done during the colonial period to provide better facilities for the majority population, at least those in the easily accessible urban areas.

We had to wonder why more had not been done during the colonial period to provide better facilities for the majority population, at least those in the easily accessible urban areas.

We had to wonder why more had not been done during the colonial period to provide better facilities for the majority population, at least those in the easily accessible urban areas.

But we were also parents with mundane concerns, and the tour lasted longer than we had been led to expect.

Departure from Freetown was delayed by the morning's festivities, but the afternoon was beguiled by some Africans in canoes paddling around the ship.

There was no privacy, and apparently no sanitation in this area, and certainly no temptation to other passengers to trespass.

There was no privacy, and apparently no sanitation in this area, and certainly no temptation to other passengers to trespass.

When the wind was in the wrong direction, it was not exactly fragrant.

It was not that the quality of the food deteriorated, but rather that our appetites diminished with the warmer weather and the limited opportunities to burn up energy with physical activity.

It was not that the quality of the food deteriorated, but rather that our appetites diminished with the warmer weather and the limited opportunities to burn up energy with physical activity.

It was not that the quality of the food deteriorated, but rather that our appetites diminished with the warmer weather and the limited opportunities to burn up energy with physical activity.

Glenys' appetite lasted longer than mine, but eventually she too succumbed and one evening we both skipped dinner and retired early.

In a couple more days we arrived at our immediate destination, Tema, the port for Accra, the capital of Ghana.

Here we were to break our journey in order to teach at an introductory course in linguistics held on the premises of the University of Ghana at Legon on the outskirts of

Here we were to break our journey in order to teach at an introductory course in linguistics held on the premises of the University of Ghana at Legon on the outskirts of

For the period of our absence from England, we had been granted short-term membership of the Summer

For the period of our absence from England, we had been granted short-term membership of the Summer

We were met by Cyril, a local SIL representative, who was allowed to come on board to bring us our entry permits for immigration before we disembarked.

We had not realised that apples do not grow in West Africa, and that for him they were a rare luxury.

Going through customs was a fairly slow business with long queues, but not particularly troublesome.

Going through customs was a fairly slow business with long queues, but not particularly troublesome.

Helen, safely ensconced in her pushchair, dropped her

It was also an encouragement to us for what we hoped to achieve in due course in Nigeria.

It was also an encouragement to us for what we hoped to achieve in due course in Nigeria.

Whether this was a sting we did not know, but the man accepted our refusal and was not persistent, so we left unhindered.

Whether this was a sting we did not know, but the man accepted our refusal and was not persistent, so we left unhindered.

Whether this was a sting we did not know, but the man accepted our refusal and was not persistent, so we left unhindered.

Africa left Liverpool once a fortnight.

We did not realise it at the time, but our voyage had enabled us to sample the end of an era in long distance travel.

Accra, being relatively flat and relatively large, created a very different impression from Freetown.

Cyril soon bore us away from the docks to the SIL group house in the suburbs.

Cyril soon bore us away from the docks to the SIL group house in the suburbs.

The building was quite large and was able to accommodate both resident and transiting members of SIL as well as various people who were there in connection with the linguistics course.

The building was quite large and was able to accommodate both resident and transiting members of SIL as well as various people who were there in connection with the linguistics course.

We were given two connecting rooms, which meant that Helen could sleep in a separate room, to our mutual satisfaction.

We were given two connecting rooms, which meant that Helen could sleep in a separate room, to our mutual satisfaction.

We were given two connecting rooms, which meant that Helen could sleep in a separate room, to our mutual satisfaction.

The level of humidity was quite comfortable, and the weather was not unduly hot, remaining pleasantly in the 70s and 80s Fahrenheit throughout our stay.

The level of humidity was quite comfortable, and the weather was not unduly hot, remaining pleasantly in the 70s and 80s Fahrenheit throughout our stay.

The level of humidity was quite comfortable, and the weather was not unduly hot, remaining pleasantly in the 70s and 80s Fahrenheit throughout our stay.

Prominent among the singers were frogs and crickets, but no doubt there were plenty of other contributors that we never identified.

Prominent among the singers were frogs and crickets, but no doubt there were plenty of other contributors that we never identified.

One performer on the first evening was so loud and shrill and insistent that

One performer on the first evening was so loud and shrill and insistent that

The frogs would come onto the verandah, and Helen's exercise after tea was to chase them in the hope of catching one.

One evening she actually succeeded, and it was hard to tell whether Helen or the frog was more taken aback.

He suffered no harm from his misadventure, however, and she enjoyed the pleasant flush of unexpected achievement.

Their favourite activity was running across the walls or upside down on the ceiling, and snapping up any mosquitoes or other delicacies that came within reach of their agile tongues.

Occasionally one would lose its grip on the ceiling and land with a plop on the floor (or the table!), but they always seemed to scuttle away with no harm done.

Most geckos had tails, but they also had the ability to shed their tails in time of danger, and now deliberately, though they must have been inadvertently trodden on occasionally.

Most geckos had tails, but they also had the ability to shed their tails in time of danger, and now deliberately, though they must have been inadvertently trodden on occasionally.

Most geckos had tails, but they also had the ability to shed their tails in time of danger, and now deliberately, though they must have been inadvertently trodden on occasionally.

There were crickets of various musical abilities around, but the most interesting representative of the grasshopper family was the praying mantis, an insect a couple of inches long that always stood with its hands folded devoutly in front, giving rise to its name.

We had never seen such large specimens, or indeed such mutilated ones.

We had never seen such large specimens, or indeed such mutilated ones.

Like the geckos, they tended to keep to the ceilings, but many of them appeared to be war veterans, some with only seven legs, some with six, and one with only five.

Whether these amputees had survived gecko strikes or some other kind of attack we never had the chance to observe, but they were a regular source of horrid fascination, especially it seemed in the bathroom where they would glare balefully at you from above the shower.

Whether these amputees had survived gecko strikes or some other kind of attack we never had the chance to observe, but they were a regular source of horrid fascination, especially it seemed in the bathroom where they would glare balefully at you from above the shower.

Whether these amputees had survived gecko strikes or some other kind of attack we never had the chance to observe, but they were a regular source of horrid fascination, especially it seemed in the bathroom where they would glare balefully at you from above the shower.

The shower itself was unpredictable.

If there was a power cut, the water also stopped for some arcane reason, and if you were already covered in soap, this was not very convenient, as power cuts could last for some time.

Helen was just beginning to talk, and our records of her speech development associated with the short period that we were in Ghana enable us to be pretty accurate in dating them.

Helen was just beginning to talk, and our records of her speech development associated with the short period that we were in Ghana enable us to be pretty accurate in dating them.

Her rendering of "spider" was "seesee," but the range of meaning of this term included flies, frogs, lizards, or anything else not big enough to be considered a "dodu."

Her rendering of "spider" was "seesee," but the range of meaning of this term included flies, frogs, lizards, or anything else not big enough to be considered a "dodu."

Helen's experiments also caused a certain amount of consternation and hilarity in the kitchen.

Helen's experiments also caused a certain amount of consternation and hilarity in the kitchen.

On one occasion someone boiled a kettle of water and was disconcerted to find the contents coming out bright green - thanks to a flower thoughtfully placed inside the kettle.

On one occasion someone boiled a kettle of water and was disconcerted to find the contents coming out bright green - thanks to a flower thoughtfully placed inside the kettle.

On one occasion someone boiled a kettle of water and was disconcerted to find the contents coming out bright green - thanks to a flower thoughtfully placed inside the kettle.

On another occasion the water came out black, and the culprits were two dominoes with their spots boiled off.

Well, if empty kettles are left within reach of a toddler...

Other delicacies included pumpkin, okra (somewhat like cucumber in appearance, but eaten fried), egg plant (rather like aubergine, but to my perception tastier), very hot green peppers, and avocado pears.

Other delicacies included pumpkin, okra (somewhat like cucumber in appearance, but eaten fried), egg plant (rather like aubergine, but to my perception tastier), very hot green peppers, and avocado pears.

Though avocados are readily available in British supermarkets nowadays, this was not so forty years ago, and we had never seen them before.

Pawpaw and lime became and remains a favourite dessert.

Helen would have been happy to live on bananas, and most mealtimes were enlivened by delighted cries of "nanu."

Helen would have been happy to live on bananas, and most mealtimes were enlivened by delighted cries of "nanu."

Meat was available but very expensive, though there was a good supply of tasty and nutritious fish.

Meat was available but very expensive, though there was a good supply of tasty and nutritious fish.

Eggs were not easy to come by, and were quite dear, and goods like butter and even margarine were both scarce and very expensive.

We even heard of "margarine riots," and when new batches of margarine became available in the shops, they were gone in no time.

The foreigners staying in the group house came from a variety of countries, and we were gradually introduced to food customs and preferences that we had not met before.

We were relieved to find that even the other Americans considered this mixture idiosyncratic.

We were relieved to find that even the other Americans considered this mixture idiosyncratic.

We travelled to and fro in various vehicles, and one day the front axle of the car I was in broke, bringing us to an abrupt halt.

We travelled to and fro in various vehicles, and one day the front axle of the car I was in broke, bringing us to an abrupt halt.

We travelled to and fro in various vehicles, and one day the front axle of the car I was in broke, bringing us to an abrupt halt.

Unusually there were two vehicles in use on this occasion, so we were able to be ferried to the university in the other vehicle.

Phonetics was mainly my responsibility, and phonemics was mainly

Glenys', though we were both able to swap roles at need.

An understanding of this is particularly important in formulating alphabets for previously unwritten languages, of which there were a good number in Ghana at that time.

Learning any language as an adult requires some understanding of all three topics, but this is especially vital if the language has not been written down before.

Learning any language as an adult requires some understanding of all three topics, but this is especially vital if the language has not been written down before.

The classrooms were in a single storey wooden building looking out onto a square somewhat reminiscent of an Oxbridge college court, though the vegetation was of course very different as well as the architecture.

The central grass area was surrounded by an attractive hedge of bushes that looked rather like privets, but whose leaves gradually turned from green to white and then to pink.

The journeys to and from the university brought various other sights and sounds to our attention.

We often passed sheep and goats, which were surprisingly difficult to distinguish for people fresh from Europe.

Both animals were about the same size and the sheep lacked the woolly fleece we would expect.

But our difficulty shed a new light on the parable of Jesus in Matthew 25 where the shepherd has to sort out sheep from goats.

On the cultural side, we became accustomed to seeing women walking along with loads carried on their heads, and very often a baby tied up in a cloth on their backs.

We also got used to the so-called "Mammy wagons," lorries used as public transport with the back occupied by passengers, especially women with goods to sell in the market.

In the light of the way some of them were driven, perhaps the most insightful was "Future is unknown."

I was naive enough and rash enough to put one in my mouth.

One of the students on the course knew an engineer working at the site, and so we were given a guided tour and allowed to drive right across the top of the dam, which offered splendid views of the river both above and below the dam itself.

However, the building of the dam would eventually inundate about ten per cent of the land area of Ghana, and drive many people out of their traditional villages, so it was by no means an unmitigated blessing to all Ghanaians.

However, the building of the dam would eventually inundate about ten per cent of the land area of Ghana, and drive many people out of their traditional villages, so it was by no means an unmitigated blessing to all Ghanaians.

However, the building of the dam would eventually inundate about ten per cent of the land area of Ghana, and drive many people out of their traditional villages, so it was by no means an unmitigated blessing to all Ghanaians.

We were able to bathe in the sea, an experience that Helen found really exhilarating.