"Milady Standard Cosmetology," Vocabulary from Part 5

True spa manicures require extensive knowledge not only of nail care, but of skin care as well. Many spa manicures are pampering, while others target specific results through the use of advanced skin-care-based methods. Most spa manicures include a relaxing massage, and all spa manicures include some form of exfoliation for not only polishing and smoothing the skin, but also for enhancing penetration of products.

Use a high quality, properly fitted dust mask when transferring chemicals from one container to another or when buffing or filing nails.

To prevent microtrauma (tiny, often unseen openings in the skin, which can allow microbes to enter the skin, leading to infection), hold the metal pusher the way you would a pencil with the flat end at a 20- to 30-degree angle from the nail plate. The spoon end is used to carefully loosen and push back the dead cuticle tissue on the nail plate. To stabilize the hand that is holding the pusher, balance your pinky finger on the hand that is holding the client’s finger.

A nail nipper is a stainless-steel implement used to carefully
trim away dead skin around the nails. It is never used to cut, rip,
or tear live tissue because the live nail fold tissue is important to ward off microbes and prevent infection around the nail plate.

Medium-grit abrasives (150 to 180 grit) are used to smooth and refine surfaces, and the 180 grit is used to shorten and shape natural nails. Fine-grit abrasives are in the category of 240 and higher grits. They are designed for buffing, polishing, and removing very fine scratches.

Acetone-based polish remover works more quickly and is a better solvent than non-acetone removers. Non-acetone removers will not dissolve enhancement products as quickly, so they are preferred when removing nail polish from nail enhancements such as wraps. Both acetone-based and non-acetone-based removers may contain additional ingredients such as aloe, vitamin E, or oils to prevent drying of the nail plate and surrounding skin.

Nail oils are designed to absorb into the nail plate to increase flexibility and into the surrounding skin to soften and moisturize.

Usually, nail bleaches contain hydrogen peroxide or some other keratin-bleaching agent. These products are designed to apply to the nail plate and under the free edge of natural nails to remove yellow surface discoloration or stains.

These are all terms used to describe the same types of products containing similar ingredients. There are no real differences in the products. Polish is the generic term describing any type of solvent-based colored film applied to the nail plate for the purpose of adding color or special visual effects (e.g., sparkles). Polish is usually applied in two coats over a base coat and then followed by a top coat.

Protein hardener is a combination of clear polish and protein (such as collagen) that provides a clear, hard coating on the surface of the nail. It does not change or affect the natural nail plate itself, because protein has very large molecules that cannot be absorbed into the nail plate.

Nail polish drying accelerators promote rapid drying by pulling solvents from the nail polish, causing the colored film to form more quickly. These products can dramatically shorten drying time and will reduce the risk of the client smudging the recent polish application.

The pre-service procedure is a step-by-step plan for the cleaning and disinfecting of your tools and materials, and for greeting and escorting your client to your service area. The service procedure is a step-by-step plan for accomplishing the actual service the client has requested. The post-service procedure is a step-by-step plan for caring for your client after the procedure has been completed.

The oval nail is a conservative nail shape that is thought to be attractive on most women’s hands. It is similar to a squoval nail with even more rounded corners. The pointed nail is suited to thin hands with long fingers and narrow nail beds. The nail is tapered and longer than usual to emphasize and enhance the slender appearance of the hand.

Paraffin is a petroleum by-product that has excellent sealing properties (barrier qualities). It is used to coat the skin on the hands and feet to hold in the skin’s natural moisture in the epidermal layers and promote deeper penetration of other products that have been used on the skin prior to the paraffin.

For a traditional French manicure look, the nail bed is one color, and the free edge of the nail is another color. With color fading, or color graduation, one color fades into the other, and the meeting point is a combination of the two. Color blocking is where the entire nail has a base color and then stripes or blocks of another color are added on top. Marbleizing is a swirled effect created by combining two or more colors while wet and then mixing them on the nail with a stylus.

Pedicures are not merely manicures on the feet. Although the basic services are similar, pedicures require specific skills; more knowledge of chronic illnesses, disorders, and diseases; and knowledge of the additional precautions for performing the service.

Foot soaks are products that are put into the water in the pedicure bath to soften the skin on the feet during the soak time. A good foot soak product is gentle but effective and thoroughly cleans and deodorizes the feet.

There are also hot stone pedicures that use comfortably warm stones that are smooth and typically basalt (a dark, fine-grained volcanic rock). The movements are gently up and towards the heart. They provide a deep, penetrating, and comforting heat that enhances relaxation and increases circulation.

Calluses form from excessive pressure on the foot and provide the extra protection the foot needs. Foot files and paddles are used (usually after a liquid callus softener has been applied) to reduce and smooth calluses to create softer skin. They are not meant to completely remove the callus, as this can cause the client to have sore or tender feet.

Nail tips are adhered to the natural nail to add extra length and to serve as a support for nail enhancement products. Tips are combined with an overlay, a layer of any kind of nail enhancement product that is applied over the natural nail and tip application for added strength.

There are various types of nail tips including partial well, full well, and well-less (no well at all). Make sure when fitting tips to your client that the tips you choose cover the nail plate from sidewall to sidewall exactly. Or choose a slightly larger tip and use an abrasive board to tailor the tip before applying it. You can also trim and bevel the well area before applying the tip to the nail, which can save you blending time.

When securing the tip to the natural nail, use the stop, rock, and hold method to avoid air bubbles and promote proper adhesion. To perform this method, approach the edge of the nail with the tip at a 45-degree angle. As you slide the tip onto the nail, find the stop against the free edge. Rock the tip on slowly by applying steady pressure as you push the tip down to release any air pockets. Hold the tip in place for five to ten seconds.

Nail wraps must have consistent maintenance after the initial application. The maintenance service accomplishes two goals: It allows the cosmetologist to 1) apply the enhancement product onto the new growth of nail, commonly referred to as refill or backfill; and 2) structurally correct the nail to ensure its strength, shape, and durability—this is commonly referred to as rebalance.

The ingredients in two-part monomer liquid and polymer powder enhancement systems belong to a branch of the acrylic family called methacrylates. The monomer liquid portion is usually one of three versions of monomer liquid used in the beauty industry: ethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, or odorless monomer liquid. Methyl methacrylate (MMA) is not recommended for use on nails and is not legal according to the state board rules in some states.

The catalyst energizes and activates the initiators. The initiators found in polymer powder, when activated by a catalyst, will spring into action and cause monomer molecules to permanently link together into long polymer chains. This action is referred to as the polymerization process. Polymerization begins when the liquid in the brush picks up powder from the container and forms a bead.

Acid-based nail primer (methacrylic acid) was once widely used to help adhere enhancements to the natural nail; they are effective but can cause serious damage to the skin and eyes. Acid-free and nonacid primers work as well as or better than acid-based nail primers. Even so, all nail primer products must be used with caution, and strictly in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

An inhibition layer is a tacky surface left on the nail after a UV or LED gel has cured.

Traditionally, light cured gels rely on a special type of acrylate called a urethane acrylate, while newer light cured gel systems use urethane methacrylates by themselves or in combination with urethane acrylates. The chemical family of urethanes is known for high abrasion resistance and durability.

When the LED gel is directly exposed to this light, it causes the oligomers to start to cure immediately. When exposed for the recommended amount of time, they will cure completely solid.

Building gels include any thick-viscosity resin that allows the cosmetologist to build an arch and curve into the fingernail. Self-leveling gels are thinner in consistency than building gels, allowing them to settle and level during application. Gel polish is a very thin-viscosity gel that is usually pigmented and packaged in a pot or a polish bottle.