belonging to an early stage of technical development
In an earlier, more
primitive era, chefs with an entrepreneurial urge believed that success began with a delicious product.
of or relating to someone who starts a new business
In an earlier, more primitive era, chefs with an
entrepreneurial urge believed that success began with a delicious product.
to cover or extend over an area or time period
If you cooked something that enough people wanted to eat, you could build an empire that might one day
span the country.
strange in an interesting or pleasing way
It all sounds rather
put together out of artificial or natural components
Marble tables were designed and
fabricated, each with a spring-loaded socket in its top.
fix firmly and stably
The sockets can
anchor pedestals that hold the pizzas several inches off the table.
complete and without restriction or qualification
Some of this is because of
a sum total of many heterogeneous things taken together
The pies are overburdened
conglomerations of cheese, flour and fistfuls of other stuff; in the end, the elements cancel one another out.
flow over or cover completely
In the Fior di Zucca, zucchini blossoms and watery shredded zucchini were completely
engulfed by an ankle-deep carpet of melted mozzarella.
a wide and open space or area as of surface or land or sky
Not that the addition of undercooked Nueske’s bacon brought much relief to the bleak
expanse of starch created by the layer of smashed potatoes on top of the Patatona.
Mr. White has said he engineered the dough to stand up to the
rigors of delivery and reheating with no loss of quality.
lacking taste or flavor or tang
Warmed up a day or two later, a Nicoletta crust is just as stiff and
bland as when it was fresh from the oven.
doubt about the truth of something
Pizza hunters with long memories will recall another pizzeria founded by an acclaimed chef whose pizza was met, at first, with
a turning aside
The menu offered many other
diversions, including full-flavored vegetables, robust pastas, a wine list built for Italy-hopping, and Meredith Kurtzman’s array of gelati, which won cult status and deserved it.
sturdy and strong in form, constitution, or construction
The menu offered many other diversions, including full-flavored vegetables,
robust pastas, a wine list built for Italy-hopping, and Meredith Kurtzman’s array of gelati, which won cult status and deserved it.
an impressive display
The menu offered many other diversions, including full-flavored vegetables, robust pastas, a wine list built for Italy-hopping, and Meredith Kurtzman’s
array of gelati, which won cult status and deserved it.
the relative position or standing of things or persons
The menu offered many other diversions, including full-flavored vegetables, robust pastas, a wine list built for Italy-hopping, and Meredith Kurtzman’s array of gelati, which won cult
status and deserved it.
having something added to increase the strength
Nice surprises did pop up now and again, like the suppli
fortified with ragù and the cucumbers pickled in white balsamic vinegar that were good enough to sell by the jar.
so great in size or force or extent as to elicit awe
But on the whole, what is striking about Nicoletta is how little evidence it gives of Mr. White’s
prodigious talent for cooking Italian food that can make you dizzy with pleasure.
the manner of preparing food or the food so prepared
That dish and others at Calliope made me wonder why bistro
cuisine in New York seems to have largely stopped evolving.
lacking refinement or cultivation or taste
They were sautéed to the rare side of medium-rare, the
uncouth edge of their bitterness softened by a Cognac-and-chicken-stock sauce with a touch of cream and butter.
having a strong pleasant odor
All around the city you can find Italian spins on this idea, the sauce a ragù pink with tomatoes and
aromatic with rosemary.
inactive but capable of becoming active
Some New Yorkers might believe that these by-the-numbers bistros offer a cheap ticket to the Left Bank, but those who have been to Paris recently know that the bistro tradition, never
dormant, has been thoroughly rejuvenated by young chefs.
return to life; get or give new life or energy
Some New Yorkers might believe that these by-the-numbers bistros offer a cheap ticket to the Left Bank, but those who have been to Paris recently know that the bistro tradition, never dormant, has been thoroughly
rejuvenated by young chefs.
a severe or trying experience
The room looks pretty, but all those hard surfaces can make conversation an
have a disagreement over something
And while I have no
quarrel with the decision to serve ricotta-chard dumplings in browned butter, such nods to Italy having become almost routine in Paris bistros, Calliope’s are dense and flat-footed.
the everyday speech of the people
vernacular, these dumplings are sinkers.
cover with liquid; pour liquid onto
And while it can’t be called her invention, the baba au rhum almost made me misty with gratitude each time a server cut the still-hot and yeasty cake neatly in half and
doused it with booze from a little pitcher, as the steam lifted the vanilla scent of aged rum into the air.
showing determination and energetic pursuit of your ends
And Calliope gets many things right, even its two note-perfect chard gratins and a New York strip steak that might sound run of the mill yet is anything but, thanks to an
aggressive searing and a small lake of butter and beef fat.
reproduce or make an exact copy of
Mr. Hoffman’s move toward a casual format that can be easily
replicated is, of course, one that makes sense to more and more restaurateurs.
language used in a figurative or nonliteral sense
The neighborhood has embraced it, giving the place a confidence and sparkle that take it well beyond the routine farm-to-table
covered with or consisting of an oxide coating
Seared on a plancha until it was just done and not a moment longer, exactly the way squid has to be cooked, it was served with smashed fingerlings and with butter dyed
rusty orange by pimentón.
marked by the exercise of good judgment in practical matters
Mr. Hoffman has installed a smoker on the second floor of Back Forty West, near where the small bar used to be, and the restaurant makes excellent,
judicious use of it.
marked by firm determination or resolution; not shakable
More than any one dish he created, an early and
steadfast loyalty to Greenmarket produce defined Mr. Hoffman as a chef.
watch, observe, or inquire secretly
Unmasking the main courses in this jumble takes bit of
sleuthing, but it’s obvious that the “Spoon” category is for desserts.
difficult to handle or manage especially because of shape
It’s hard to imagine this
ungainly dish on the menu at Back Forty West, and not just because you need your hands and a fork to eat it.
opposition between two conflicting forces or ideas
contradiction to share that sadness while celebrating the rise of places like Back Forty West, which make fine local products into everyday food.